Who could resist the dramatic semicircular colonnades in St. Peter's Square, the encircling arms of Mother Church?
Or the passion and perfect marble flesh of Saint Teresa? (thanks Wiki)
Or the drama of the Dove of the Holy Spirit in St. Peter's Basilica?
So much has been written about their creator, a sculptor, painter, architect and father of the Baroque.
That superabundance has stopped me writing this post for two weeks.
Then I recalled that this is my space, to record my observations, facts I want to retain, findings from research rabbitholes I've fallen down, not the definitive source on Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
So, let's reduce Bernini's legendary career down to one delightfully cheeky sculpted elephant: with a bit of how she came to be, and what hidden messages might be found in her chunky frame.
Bernini's elephant and I were next-door neighbours for a divinely busy week in October. My small hotel was paces from Piazza della Minerva. The square featured Rome's only Gothic church (I'm told), and a Dominican friary (site of Galileo's trial at the hands of the Inquisition in 1633 for the heresy of suggesting the earth revolved around the sun.)
It was as you can see just around another corner from no less a neighbour than the Pantheon. Are you picking up a bit of my "pinch me, I'm actually here!" enthusiasm?
So, here's what I have gleaned from tall tales and urban legends from my Pantheon walking tour guide and a few dozen websites, about Bernini's elephant:
-commissioned by Pope Alexander VII and unveiled in 1667
-designed by Bernini, likely carved by assistant Ercole Ferrata
- supports a five-metre tall 6th century BC red gramite Egyptian obelisk on her back (more later, on those stupendous things scattered around the city)
-the Pope's idea was a symbol of divine wisdom and a strong foundation. The inscription reads: "Let any beholder of the carved images of the wisdom of Egypt on the obelisk carried by the elephant, the strongest of beasts, realize that it takes a robust mind to carry solid wisdom."
- the project was supervised by Dominican priest Domenico Paglia with whom Bernini had artistic differences. Paglia insisted that such a weight required support, and Bernini was forced to prop up the belly with a cube, disguised as a saddlecloth (which led to mocking about his chubby creation.) And we all know that Bernini could make solid stone float on air ("physics-bending" in one commentary) Just look at that trunk! And then there's the Fountain of the Four Rivers...
-the Bernini-Paglia friction led our guide (and numerous others) to draw attention to the elephant's behind.The story goes that the elephant's tail, pointed at the Dominican convent home of Paglia, is twitched to the side, and its buttocks clenched, as if it's about to pass wind.
So Bernini had the last word.
To conclude, a quick look around the Piazza. The plain front of the Gothic church is deceiving, I assure you. I'll take you inside later. And explain the name.
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