Still Life

During two fairly demanding weeks of travel in Greece last fall, we managed to visit an astonishing number of ancient sites. I can still recall the buzz - excitement, crowds, demanding pace, challenging terrain and the sheer awe at standing before, or in, places I'd studied for years, and dreamed of visiting for longer. Three of those ancient places - the Acropolis of Athens, Olympia and Delphi - are endowed with splendid modern archeological museums. Recalling our visits to each of those impressive modern museums, I recall the same excitement, but even more enduring is the memory of stillness. August silence, reverent stillness. A moment to stand in the presence of something ancient and important. Just us.

Here are a few moments of awe, starting with Olympia. 

The Archeological Museum of Olympia, dedicated to Zeus and home to the hugely important pan-Hellenic games every four years, is a short walk from the actual site. Still in 'culture shock' from several hours of tour and wandering the site, we entered the silence of the museum. Nothing can be as still and silent as something carved in the first and second centuries AD.

I've included this statue, which is probably of Poppaea Sabina, second wife of the Emperor Nero, I'm told. 

Just contemplate the artistry of the drapery, try to remember this is 20 century old marble. And the hair. The face. The naturalistic contraposto stance. I'm sure she's pleased with the lighting.

And then I come upon Nike of Paionios. Nike "was the winged goddess of triumph in battle and contests, who symbolizes success, speed and strength." Thanks, AI. 

Nothing about stinky trainers here. 

I was at my most impressed when I got to meet Hermes and the infant Dionysus - yes, that Dionysus - in person. See his little arm reaching out for the grapes Hermes is holding in his right hand? This realistic (but for missing bits) duo was discovered on the site in 1877, in the ruins of the temple of Hera, which I've written about recently. 

It's the work of the celebrated sculptor Praxiteles. 

Our brilliant guide Dionysus with my man Hadrian, sculpture dating to the 2nd century AD. The detail in the armour is phenomenal. 

Of course, not everyone experiences these places in the same way. With her permission, I add this photo of my mischievous and irreverent travelling companion and her moment with a full-size bull sculpture hailing from the 2nd century AD.