Lake Effect

 

The sky's been grey for days. Today, fine snow added to the impressionistic softness. Nice, but craving sunshine. I've been satisfying my curiosity and writing some entries about buildings of interest (not for the easily bored) today, and keep coming upon albums of photos taken in bright sun. 'Nuff said. Let's go back to Bled, one lovely day last May. 

Lake Bled, despite its rather unappealing name, is glorious. It's in north-western Slovenia, about 55 km. from the capital Lubljana (another sunny day visit.) We're in the Julian Alps, just south of the Austrian border. 

The lake became the retreat of royals and aristocrats during the Austo-Hungarian Empire. 

Another era produced another lake lover. The rather Soviet era building to the left was the summer residence of Josip Broz Tito, built in 1947 on the site of the former royal residence. Here Tito entertained the likes of Nikita Krushchev and Indira Ghandi. Now the building's a boutique hotel - we didn't inquire about rates.

Yugoslavia's royal family's story highlights the complex history of Croatia and Slovenia. the Karadordevics were once the Serbian royal family. I'll just park this challenging bit of history right here for now.

All this new information and not a single card catalogue has been rifled in its discovery!  What a wonderful world. 

The beauty here defies description. An embarassment of riches, as mom used to say. One could almost imagine Bob Ross suggesting "let's pop in just one more picturesque detail here." A storybook medieval castle on a cliff, a church on an island. Turquoise glacial waters. Forest, snowtopped mountains. 

And despite my thinking I might miss a day without archi history, it was a fabulous unforgettable day.

Bled island is accessible only by the traditional wooden pletna boats, suitably picturesque. The colourful wooden boats with gay awnings are powered by a single standing rower. The role is hereditary, with licences held by only a few families, passed down through the generations. The pletna boats have been operating since the 1500s, when they ferried people and materials to the island church. We clambered aboard one of the 23 boats, twenty or so of us in convivial facing rows, looking forward to bobbing along historically for the 20 minute ride.

Once on the island, we took the 90 steps up to the Assumption of Mary Pilgrimage Church.   The changing topography, the vegetation - the views!!! all come back to me as I write this.

As to church history, I can report that the Gothic style church consecrated in 1465 was a remodel, the original dating from 1142. Earthquake damage led to another rebuild, this time in built in early Baroque style. The church has that northern Europe flavour, so different from the churches I love in Italy. The shape of the church, the wall and the 99 steps leading up have endured since the early 17th century. 

I passed on a visit inside the church, preferring to soak up sun and history without benefit of interpretation or intercession.

Bled Castle

water colour due to the limestone lake bottom

The walk back down the path to the waiting boats (consious that our boat left at a certain time, and I had no idea how long the path woud take) provided  marvels underfoot and at a distance.

And unbelievably, the day offered even more. We visited that castle on the rock pinnacle, Bled Castle. Yes, there is a road up! The castle's origins are medieval, it's been through countless misadventures and iterations until final work in 1952 by respected architect Tone Bitenc, keeping the medieval character while adapting it to earning its living via events and the tourism economy. 

Castellum Veldes, as it started out, I read on their website, is the oldest castle in Slovenia; a document of  ownership dated 1011 establishes the fact. Here's the entire ownership history, too much for me. 

I never did get fully oriented. I think I needed this aerial shot (thanks Wikipedia). 

The castle is composed of upper and lower courtyards connected by a staircase. A  museum and functioning historical printing shop, and bunches of people distracted me further. 

Romanesque tower, the oldest part of the castle. Struck by lightning several times, I read somewhere, so goodness knows how much of it's actually Romanesque.

I wandered and captured details and vignettes that pleased me. And they still do. This is what I love about my little blogging habit - I can just keep on travelling (thanks Rick Steves.)

The spot I loved most, a refuge from the moderate tourist bustle was the serene and lovely 16th century Gothic Chapel; frescoes date to the late 1600s, so a bit Baroque for my taste. Nice meditative space, however with the windows and oculus in its little arch. 

But one can't top this for serenity. From here I'm looking back at the island I visited earlier in the day. I still can't believe I was here. 

So very grateful for this day.