Saturday, August 1, 2026

One little Square

 Travelling is such temptation. Every step opens new doors, and on and on. A walk through a town in France with all its layers of history laid bare, gives such joy on meeting special places - and creates infinite temptations to deepen the relationship - but one moves on. I loathe the expression I've heard from louder-than-necessary tourists that they've "done" Sienna, or York, or Arles. 

The heart's desire always is to revisit, find a base, live long and explore. But alas, not in this finite lifetime. I am so very grateful for the small sips I have taken at this deep well.

 Fortunately I have an opportunity to revisit via my photos, and learn more from the vast array of sources at our disposal. 

So, a few thoughts about Arles.

I am particularly fond of this photo. I was doing a quick mental tally of the Romanesque details on the facade of the Church of St. Trophime, when I was stopped by this timeless image of a priest and a beggar. Slow down, girl.

This moment has been on repeat at Place de la Republique for a long time. The church was built in the 12th and 15th centuries: the portal sculpture in the Last Judgement tympanum is considered among the best Romansque work anywhere. 


Here's a better description than I'll ever create, thanks to SmartHistory.org.






The nave is 65 feet tall. Say that out loud to yourself. 









Here's St. Trophime on Place de la Republique, Arles, thanks to Streetview.















 A circumnavigation of the square reveals some undistinguished (to me) neighours, but oh look, there's a fourth century red granite Roman obelisk, originally in Constantine II's circus, rediscovered broken in the 14th century. It's perched on an 18th century  water fountain.









The Hotel de Ville, opened 1676, yielded a moment I'll not long forget. Entering the main level, expecting the busy classical decoration of the facade, we encountered a shallow marble vaulted space, serene and beautiful, marble stone-cutting astonishing and beautiful, so geometrically perfect that the ceiling's weight is borne without cenral pillars.



















Then there was this beauty, St. Anne's, a seventeenth century southern Gothic church now serving as exhibition space (thanks Wiki). No time to get to know her. Just five minutes away is the hospital where Vincent once recovered. Here's a closer look. Away we go.

All this on one little square in one historic town in exquisite Provence. 

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